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WATERTIGHT WIRE SEALS ~ Installation Instructions
Click here to see specifications of our Watertight Wire Seal
Click here to order Watertight Wire Seals. We offer several WWS models and sizes that you can purchase installed on your case or for self-instalation.
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You can install your own Watertight Wire Seals (WWS) to any of our cases to run a wire, cable, tubing or even an antenna through the case wall and make it liquid and gas tight.
For best results, please read the instructions before making any modifications. The old adage applies: "Measure twice, cut once" for getting it done right the first time. |
You will need some tools:
- Razor Blade
- Carpet Knife
- Wire Cutters
- Marker, Pencil
- Boring Bit Set
- Electric Drill
- Drill Bit Set
- NPT Tap
- Crescent or combo wrenches
- Electrical Tape
- Bench Grinder
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Not all of these tools are absolutely necessary for every application and some are redundant. We will try to cover each and every possible installation scenario below. It is possible that some of you will find new obstacles for which we will try to find new solutions. Let us know how it goes, if you need help or just to share your comments and input to help us improve the installation instructions. We are always glad to help and will do our best to help answer any questions you may have. |
Which model WWS do I need?
Choose your WWS connector based on your cable diameter. Each Wire Seal model is designed to work with a specified range of wire diameters. For the smallest of cable diameters, you will need our WWS-#10-2AWG model seen to the right, which includes three rubber seals and accepts wire diameters from 0.05" to almost 1/2" at 0.47". Please note that the thin black Rubber Seal is inside the WWS Body when you receive the kit, and you will need to remove it to use any of the other Rubber Seals. You will have two leftover seals. All other WWS models come with only one rubber seal, and the cable diameter range they accept will be smaller.
WWS are designed primarily for bare cables and wires for hardwiring. The connector that you may have at the end of your cable is not considered for sizing purposes, and that can often times lead to the biggest challenge. |
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My cable has a connector on the end.
Confirm that the connector will go through the hard plastic body of the WWS. Some plugs are very close to fitting, and can be made to go through by shaving off some of the plastic insulation with either a razor blade or with a bench grinder. Go slow with the grinder and lightly grind the high spots on the insulation while spinning the connector. Continue spinning the connector to prevent the plastic from overheating or melting and to keep its shape. Allow the connector to cool if necessary or apply compressed air while grinding the insulation. |
Most connectors have a raised grip area (knurled), arrows, and other raised features that can be taken off first. Take a little off at a time and keep checking the connector against the body of the WWS to only remove the least amount necessary. Other alternatives are to either cut the cable and splice after assembly or use a larger WWS model. If you decide to cut the cable, we recommend that you calculate for the wire splice to be inside of the case to protect the spliced section. |
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If you prefer not to cut and re-splice the wire, you can use a larger WWS that will allow your connector to go through the WWS body without modifications. Build up the cable with electrical tape or weather stripping material until the larger WWS Rubber Seal can properly clamp and seal cable . Rubber based electrical tape works well to give the seal flexibility. It is important that the domed cap of the WWS not bottom out against the flange when tightened. The pressure that stops the Dome Cap from turning must be between the rubber seal and your cable or tape you have added to build up the cable diameter. See below images. |
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Correct: Not bottomed out |
Incorrect: Bottomed out |
Double check everything again by making sure that your connector and cable fits through the hard plastic body of the WWS. Depending on how demanding and how watertight the application requirement, confirm that your case or enclosure is watertight before you drill any holes into it. If you are adding multiple WWSs, please complete one at a time and check for watertight integrity at each possible level. This will help you isolate the source of a leak as soon as you created it. Caution, warranties will be void once you drill a hole into the case, so take your time, measure twice and cut only once.
Where can I install my WWS?
You can install a WWS to any flat surface of a case. Both sides of the case wall needs to be flat and free of any obstructions. Use the locknut to help you confirm that there is enough room for the WWS and that you are not too close to a corner or a rib that may prevent the WWS from resting on a flat surface. Also check the opposite side of the case wall in the same way to confirm that no reinforcement or mounting ribs will prevent the lock nut from laying flat or from turning while tightening during the final installation. |
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Choosing the correct boring bit
Measure the thread diameter to choose the right bit size or line up the boring bit blade to the lock nut end of the WWS (opposite of the dome cap) and ensure that the edges of the blade are slightly wider than the thread diameter. You can alternatively drill a slightly smaller hole and cut threads into the case wall with the apropriate size NPT thread tap as an additional sealing and securing measure. Tapping threads into the case wall is also useful with thicker case walls that may prevent you from installing the lock nut on the inside of the case wall. |
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Drilling holes in plastic cases
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1. Secure the case with a clamp or have someone help you hold the case steady. Line up the boring bit pilot tip on your mark and position the drill alignment level at 90 degrees of the case surface to avoid cutting diagonally through the case wall.
2. Drill at low speed until the exterior bit cutters start cutting the hole perimeter and the milling blades begin to shave the surface of the circle. STOP drilling. The next step can be dangerous if the case is not held tighly due to possible blade kickback. Reposition and stabilize the case and the drill as needed before proceeding.
3. Double check your angles and blade alignment. Start slowly and steadily increase drilling speed to medium speed, applying medium pressure to complete drilling through the case wall. De-burr the hole edges and remove any excess material from the inside and outside of the hole. Plastic burrs or shavings may prevent the WWS body or lock nut from laying flat on the case wall surface.
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Install the WWS body into the hole from the outside of the case, add the lock nut on the inside of the case, and tighten by hand. For use between the WWS body and the exterior case wall, some WWS models include a rubber gasket. You may choose not to use the rubber gasket, especially when the wall thickness limits how much thread is exposed on the inside of the case for the lock nut. |
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Feed the cable from the inside of the case through the Lock Nut and WWS body assembly already installed on the case. Pass the cable through the Rubber Seal and Dome Cap and slide the Rubber seal into the WWS Body. Please note that the Rubber Seal is uni-directional and the end with the flare goes into the WWS Body first. The Rubber Seal should be level with the top of the WWS clamping teeth. |
Bottom view of the Rubber Seals for the #10-2AWG.
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WWS Clamping Teeth with black Rubber Seal inside.
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WWS with Rubber Seal for small diameter wires. Can also be used as a plug. |
Begin threading the Dome Cap on the WWS Body. After adjusting the cable to the correct position, tighten by hand. Take special care to ensure that the Dome Cap does not bottom out on the WWS Body as discussed above. Replace the Rubber seal with a smaller one or build up the cable with tape or weather stripping material to prevent it from bottoming out. Slowly tighten the Lock Nut on the inside of the case with a wrench, taking care not to strip the threads. The WWS is molded with very tough Nylon resin, but can still be damaged when applying excessive torque while using a crescent or combination wrench. Go slowly and steadily.
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How do I use the solid white plug for smaller cables?
For the smallest of cables, you will need to modify the solid plug that is included with the #10-2AWG model WWS. All other WWS models come with only one Rubber Seal, and will by design accommodate only the cable diameter range specified on the drop-down menu at our product page.
Cut only the radius of the circumference.
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Using a sharp razor blade or a pair of sharp wire cutters, cut through the height of the plug to create a slit to slip the cable into.
CAUTION: Cut ONLY the radius from the center to the the edge of the plug. DO NOT CUT THE PLUG IN TWO!
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To make room for the wire and depending on it's size, you may need to to drill a hole through the center of the Rubber Seal Plug. We have found that this is not absolutely necessary and in most instances, the elastomeric (flexible) nature of the seal material makes it difficult to drill through. A couple other options are cutting the slit slightly past the center point or removing a thin wedge in the slit to accommodate a thicker cable to help the plug close completely when squeezing it together.
Slip the wire into the slit cut to the center of the Rubber Seal Plug. Orient the plug so that the flanged side is inserted into the WWS Body first. If you did not drill a recess hole into the center or removed a thin wedge from the opening, you will find that the cable will spread the plug open a bit.
Close the Rubber Seal Plug by squeezing it shut with your fingers while inserting the plug into the WWS Body. Keep the wire towards the center of the plug while seating the Rubber Seal into the WWS Body. |
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Install the Dome Cap and tighten until the slit is completely closed and sealed. Tighten further with a wrench, taking care again not to apply excessive force that could damage the threads or other components of the WWS assembly. Test the clamping force on the wire or cable by slowly pulling on the cable. It should be tight and difficult to pull the cable through the assembled WWS. You may choose to add a knot when using a malleable enough wire on the inside of the case to keep it from sliding through the Wire Seal assembly. |
You may add silicone caulk to fill the inside hole of the WWS after assembly. As a standard procedure, we do not use silicone. The WWS design does not require sealants when installed correctly and on a flat surface. You can add silicone for your application as an added sealing measure that may also help keep the cable from slipping. Please allow a full 48 hours of undisturbed curing time, and keep the case open for proper ventilation. |
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Test the assembly periodically and re-tighten the lock nut and the dome cap as needed. When performing a leak test, remove any sensitive equipment from the case and fill the case with crumpled newspaper. Add as much newspaper as possible, taking care not to pinch any paper when closing the case or it will act as a wick that will draw in water. The manner in which newspaper absorbs water will help you quickly identify the source location of even the smallest seapage by isolating it to the specific area of the leak. Use compressed air to remove any water beaded on the case exterior before lifting the latches or opening the case after submerging to avoid a false test result.
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We can install WWS for you.
You can order your case with Installed Watertight Wire Seals and if you are not 100% sure of what you need, it is best that you send us the cable(s) you want installed and we'll send you the case completely assembled and water tested. Use the Special Instructions fields during checkout or submit our contact form with your requirements. |
If you know the WWS model you need and want us to do the installation, just let us know your preferred location on the case. We can install a WWS on any flat surface with an available area of about 2 square inches.
When you send us pictures of the connectors, please place the cable connectors on or near a ruler to help us appreciate the approximate sizes. Order Installed WWS from this page and include the details of requirements in the "Special Instructions" field during checkout. We will confirm the details of the work to be done and will answer any questions or concerns you may have before starting the work. You won't be charged until everything is settled and the work begins. Please allow for 3 to 7 days for WWS installation. Do let us know when you need it by, and we will always do our best to meet that. |
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Take me to the beginning of the article.
Links to more Watertight Wire Seal pages:
Specifications
Order WWS Installed
Order WWS for Self Install
See more Customized Cases
Request For Quotation (RFQ)
WWS MODELS
Watertight Wire Seal antenna application.
  
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